All things bright and beautiful: (2019) 5 days in South Korea --- Day 2 (Friday), Naejangsan 內藏山

This day was one of the highlights of our Korean trip --- a visit to Naejangsan National Park, which is one of the prime sites for viewing fall foliage. The Naejangsan mountain is about 3 hours drive south of Seoul. There are operators who offer day trips to Naejangsan from Seoul, but such trips obviously necessitate a large amount of time on the road, while inevitably allowing rather limited time at the mountain itself. That is a reason why we chose to stay overnight in Jeonju 全州, which is less than an hour's drive from Naejangsan. Doing so allowed us to spend one full day in the National Park, giving us the chance to explore the Park in depth, such as hiking on some of the trails within the Park.

Guide Map of Naejangsan Park marked with hiking trails

There is an option of taking public transport from Jeonju to Naejangsan. In our case, we decided to share a taxi to go directly from the hotel to Naejangsan. The hotel receptionist had helped us to check the taxi fare and book the taxi. This was an easier option for us, and economically viable as the fare was shared by four of us. Of course it also gave us more time to spend in the Park. We did take the bus back to Jeonju on the return journey though.

Even though it was already November, it was disappointing that the foliage at Naejangsan was still predominantly green. Nonetheless, a handful of trees whose leaves had totally turned into a golden colour, or even fully red, could be seen here and there. We had timed our visit to the mountain on a Friday rather than during the weekend, as it was said on some websites that visitors to the Park could number up to 100,000 on a weekend in the peak season. When we arrived at the Park, we didn't see the crowd we had expected, possibly because the locals knew the fall colours had not yet peaked, or maybe we were earlier than those travelling from Seoul or elsewhere.

By the Information Centre at the entrance of Naejangsan National Park

Map of Naejangsan National Park, provided by the Park Information Centre

The guide map that we picked up from the Information Centre was very helpful in showing the paths and points of interest in the Park. As we had one full day to spend at the Park, we decided to go on two trails. The first was a circular path starting from the Iljimun Wooden Gate, leading up the hill to the Wonjeokam Monastery 圓寂庵, then returning via the Byeokryeonam Monastery 碧蓮庵. The second trail was a more ambitious one. While the guide map suggested taking the Cable Car up to the Yeonjabong Peak Observatory 燕子峯展望臺 and walking down the hill to Naejangsa Temple 內藏寺, we decided to take the reverse path. We were to find that this reverse path was very strenuous, as the trail up the hill was very steep.

The first part of the walk into the Park was an easy path lined with maple trees along a narrow quiet brook.

Sign of autumn

Fall foliage, Naejangsan

"Protection of homeland freedom memorial"

The path into the Park led to a small lake. A beautiful pavilion with a distinctive sky-blue-coloured top stood by the lake. It takes on the poetic name of Uhwajeong Pavilion 羽化亭, which translates as "Feather Transforming Pavilion". Apparently the current Pavilion was a fairly new installation, rebuilt in recent years.

Uhwajeong Pavilion 羽化亭, Naejangsan

A prominent structure in the Park is the Iljumun Wooden Gate 一柱門 (literally the One Pillar Gate). This type of wooden gate commonly marks the entrance of Korean Buddhist temples, in this case the Naejangsa Temple 內藏寺.

Iljumun 一柱門 (One Pillar Gate) Wooden Gate marking the entrance of Naejangsa Temple 內藏寺.
The sign on the large stone on the right reads 碧蓮庵, i.e. Byeokryeonam Monastery.

Guide Map of Naejangsan Park. It was easier to read the printed version provided by the Information Centre.

We took the path up the hill to the Wonjeokam Monastery 圓寂庵. Wonjeokam Monastery was a small hut looking somewhat neglected and in need of repair. A large statue of Guanyin (goddess of Mercy), painted in gold, stood besides the Monastery.

Trail leading up to Wonjeokam Monastery 圓寂庵

Wonjeokam Monastery 圓寂庵 --- looking somewhat neglected and in need of repair

The trail from Wonjeokam Monastery 圓寂庵 to Byeokryeonam Monastery 碧蓮庵 has the name of "Road of Love", which sounds a bit out of place for a path linking two monasteries. However, whoever gave this name might not have "romantic love" in mind, but rather the love of charity and sacrifice. In any case, the path provided much opportunity to view fall foliage!

On the trail from Wonjeokam Monastery 圓寂庵 to Byeokryeonam Monastery 碧蓮庵

The trail from Wonjeokam Monastery to Byeokryeonam Monastery turned out to be good for seeing fall foliage

Fall foliage, Naejangsan

In contrast to the almost nondescript Wonjeokam Monastery 圓寂庵, Byeokryeonam Monastery 碧蓮庵 was a fairly large complex with several beautiful and well kept buildings.

One of the buildings at Byeokryeonam Monastery 碧蓮庵

Buddhist words of wisdom written in Chinese and Korean

Buildings at the Byeokryeonam Monastery complex 碧蓮庵

Thousand Buddha Shrine 千彿殿

Buildings at the Byeokryeonam Monastery complex 碧蓮庵

Pavilion at Byeokryeonam Monastery 碧蓮庵

Pavilion at Byeokryeonam Monastery 碧蓮庵. On the plaque at the Pavilion are inscribed the Chinese characters 碧蓮禪院, which is another way of calling Byeokryeonam Monastery.

The circular trail took us back to the Iljumun (Wooden Gate). From there, the "Maple Tunnel" path leads to Naejangsa Temple 內藏寺. Lined with maple trees on both sides, with branches of the trees from the two sides stretching out and touching, almost giving the shape of a tunnel, the path does live up to its name. It would just look so magical if the fall colours were at their peak. Such a picture, often depicted on tourist websites, was left to our imagination.

"Maple Tunnel" 楓樹隧道

Pond with fountain in front of Naejangsa Temple 內藏寺

Naejangsa Temple 內藏寺

From Naejangsa Temple, we ventured to hike up to the Yeonjabong Peak Observatory 燕子峯展望臺, even though most tourist information would suggest taking the Cable Car up the peak and walk down the hill. We would soon realize this suggested route was the preferable and easier option, as it was a very steep and strenuous climb up the hill. The panoramic view of the surrounding mountains offered by the Observatory made the climb definitely worthwhile though.