Saturday 4 April 2020

(2019) 9 days in Hawaii --- Day 2 (Tuesday) Kailua-Kona and Mauna Kea summit, Big Island

Setting sun above a sea of clouds on Mauna Kea

Day 2 of our trip to Hawaii included what was, without a doubt, the biggest highlight of our itinerary --- a visit to the summit of Mauna Kea. As we thought it was likely to be too much of a challenge for us to drive up (and down, in the dark) the 4207m (over 13,800 ft) Mauna Kea by ourselves, we had booked the "Maunakea Summit and Stars" tour with Haiwaii Forest and Trail. Departure of the tour was from their Kona headquarters in the afternoon. So, we had the morning free to see more of downtown Kailua-Kona.


We started close to the Kona Inn Shopping Village on Ali'i Drive, the main oceanfront street and an area popular with tourists. There were several churches along the street, a prominent one being St. Michael The Archangel Church.  The white-coloured church stood out as a fairly big building compared with those around. Two staircases led up to the main entrance of the church, which was raised from the ground.  The church looked very new, both inside and outside. The main sanctuary was well lit by sunlight let in by large windows on the left and right. Apparently the present church building is a new construction, with the original church on the location dating back to 1850. As it was in early January when we visited, a beautiful nativity scene was still on display by the side of the church.

St. Michael the Archangel Church, Kailua-Kona

St. Michael the Archangel Church, Kailua-Kona

St. Michael the Archangel Church, Kailua-Kona

Nativity scene outside the church

A short distance up the street is the historical Hulihe'e Palace, a former summer residence of Hawaiian royalty. The two-story palace, simple in design and small in size, has a large balcony on the upper floor running the whole length of the building looking out towards the Kona coast, ideal for catching the ocean breeze during the day and watching the setting sun at dusk. 


Historical Hulihe'e Palace (view of the front), Kailua-Kona



Hulihe'e Palace (view of the side and back), Kailua-Kona

Across the road from Hulihe'e Palace is the historical Mokuaikaua Church, which is the oldest Christian church in the Hawaiian island.

Painted sign-post of the Mokuaikaua Church

Mokuaikaua Church --- first church in the Hawaiian Islands

Mokuaikaua Church

Mokuaikaua Church

Mokuaikaua Church

Before meeting up for the Mauna Kea tour, we had a light brunch at the Daylight Mind Coffee Company restaurant, located across the street opposite St Michael the Archangel Church. Just like Kona Inn Restaurant where we had dinner the previous night, the Daylight Mind Coffee Company offered a very nice view of the Kona coast.


Coffee culture

Puna Kine Benedict, Daylight Mind Coffee Company

Breakfast Taco, Daylight Mind Coffee Company

Perfect match --- Kona coffee by the Kona coast 


View from Daylight Mind Coffee Company

The Haiwaii Forest and Trail company headquarters was a short drive away. At the appointed time, our group of about twelve were taken on a sturdy 4x4 minivan, ready to start our road trip up the magnificent Mauna Kea. Along the way, the friendly and knowledgeable guide asked us to go in round to say where we came from and what we had hoped to see on this tour.  The stars, Milky Way, clouds, the sunset, ... all these sights are what attract people to Mauna Kea. For me, I had hoped to see the big telescopes and take a couple of photos of the night sky.


On the road to Mauna Kea

On the road to Mauna Kea

Though it was hardly 4pm, we made a stop for dinner! It must be the earliest dinner that I have ever had. For that, we stopped at a private ranch that the tour company had access to.

Time for dinner?



Interesting location for picnic dinner

Interesting location for picnic dinner

Mauna Kea is of course well known for the many world-class observatories at its summit.

Hawaiian site of the Very Long Baseline Array (VLBA) radio telescopes

One receiver of the Very Long Baseline Array (VLBA) radio telescopes

One receiver of the Very Long Baseline Array (VLBA) radio telescopes

Comparison of the size of optical telescopes, including several ones on Mauna Kea

Canada-France-Hawaii Telescope and Gemini North Telescope
Towering over the clouds

Gemini North Telescope on the left and University of Hawai'i 88-inch (2.2m) telescope (UH88) on the right
Left to right as viewed: United Kingdom Infrared Telescope (UKIFT), Gemini North Telescope and University of Hawai'i 88-inch (2.2m) telescope (UH88)

Left to right: Subaru Telescope, Keck I and II Telescopes, and NASA Infrared Telescope Facility (IRTF)

United Kingdom Infrared Telescope (UKIRT) and the setting sun

Summit of Mauna Kea, sacred to Native Hawaiians

Looking at the setting sun above the sea of clouds was such an awe-inspiring experience. With the clouds blocking the view of the land, one wouldn't even know whether it was raining 14000 feet below --- it wouldn't matter us at all. It was a feeling of almost being out of the world.

Setting sun above a sea of clouds on Mauna Kea

Setting sun above a sea of clouds on Mauna Kea

NASA Infrared Telescope Facility (IRTF)

Golden light of the setting sun on Mauna Kea Observatories



Sun setting below the clouds

For city-dwellers like us, seeing the night sky without light pollution is a luxury, or rather, downright impossible in our usual everyday life. Under the cover of virtually total darkness at the top of Mauna Kea, the feast of stars  and galaxies across the vast expanse of the night sky was totally mesmerizing. One couldn't help but be struck with the beauty of the universe, a realization of its immensity and the humbling thought of the smallness of our own world. 

"When I consider your heavens,

    the work of your fingers,

the moon and the stars,

    which you have set in place,

what is mankind that you are mindful of them,

    human beings that you care for them?" 

(Psalms 8:3-4)


Starry night

Vast expanse of the night sky, seen without pollution of city lights

Overview: 9 days in Hawaii
Previous: Hawaii Day 1
Next: Hawaii Day 3

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